Emma Webster: Illuminarium
Gary is the Founder & Head of Content of ArtDrunk. Follow him on Instagram.
Just north of COEX (where Frieze is located), Cheongdam has steadily become Seoul’s latest art neighborhood. This month, Perrotin inaugurates their new space in the trendiest of spots by Dosan Park, following Gladstone’s expansion to Seoul and the opening of SongEun Art Space’s new Herzog & de Meuron-designed museum. If you’ve worked up an appetite after gallery hopping, Cheongdam is also home to my favorite restaurants – everything from Korean BBQ to sushi omakase and tteokbokki. Long considered Seoul’s luxury and fashion district, Cheongdam is also a good place to start shopping if you need a new outfit ahead of the Frieze parties.
I’ve organized the list below in the following order: art, bars & restaurants, coffee, then shops. Hope you enjoy my picks! We’ll keep updating this list as new places pop up.
–Gary Yeh
Perrotin opens a new gallery in the heart of glittering Gangnam with an equally dazzling show of new paintings by Emma Webster. Webster paints trippy landscapes in all the trendiest colors. Gorges, peaks, and forests emerge out of sickly greens, hazy blues, and worn-out ambers. It’s Dr. Seuss meets Caspar David Friedrich. But her good old-fashioned easel work has a surprisingly techie origin. She uses VR to map out the fantasy landscapes before turning to brushes and paint. (The 18th century English painter Gainsborough reportedly stuck broccoli stems in a flower pot for the same purpose). Webster leaves you wondering how our lofty views of unspoiled nature are complicated by the sinister spread of man-made artifice.
Mon – Sun / 10am – 6pm
SongEun is best known for their annual Art Award which supports Korean contemporary artists with both group and solo exhibitions. For most of their history, they occupied a space tucked into a residential area of Cheongdam. Recently, however, they moved into a monolithic building that juts out from Dosan-daero. Designed by Herzog & de Meuron, it’s worth a visit just for the architecture. Currently on view is Summer Love, featuring 13 young artists who have previously shown at SongEun over the past few years.
Mon – Sun / 11am – 6:30pm
One of the most recent international galleries to plop down in Seoul, Gladstone features a slightly more conceptual program than others. Some of our favorites from their artist roster include Anicka Yi, Ed Atkins, and Jill Mulleady. During Frieze Seoul, you’ll find an exhibition by Rirkrit Tiravanija split across two floors. It’s a show that questions the human condition.
Tue – Fri / 11am – 7pm
Sharing a space with fashion brand MCM, König occupies the top floor and rooftop with its program of international artists. Koo Jeong A, Elmgreen & Dragset, and Alicja Kwade are just a few of the artists that they represent. During Frieze Week, you’ll find a solo show of paintings by Matthias Weischer. They each involve an interior space with everyday objects and fun colors.
Tue – Sun / 11am – 7pm
If you haven’t noticed, art and luxury fashion pairings are a theme in Cheongdam. That’s also the case with Atelier Hermès, which is located in the basement level of Hermès’ flagship store. They rotate through about four shows a year, and have a nice balance between bringing in international artists as well as supporting Korean artists through their annual art award. Currently on view is their 19th award, featuring Sungsil Ryu. And once you’re done seeing art, they have a nice cafe on the same floor (the orange juice is a must).
Mon – Sun / 11am – 7pm (closed Wed)
Located at the very top of Louis Vuitton’s flagship store in Seoul, Espace Louis Vuitton is home to a rotating program of artwork borrowed from the collection of Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris. The building itself was designed by Frank Gehry in his usual jagged style. Past exhibitions have featured Alberto Giacometti, Gerhard Richter, and Andy Warhol. Most recently, you might recall that they repurposed the space into a pop-up restaurant run by chef Pierre Sang. True to the space, they also had a painting by Park Seo-bo on view. Nothing on view during Frieze Week though.
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Emma Webster: Illuminarium
Summer Love
Rirkrit Tiravanija: SUBMIT TO THE BLACK COMPOST
Matthias Weischer: Mirrors and Things
19th Hermès Foundation Missulsang: Sungsil Ryu
Emma Webster: Illuminarium
Summer Love
Rirkrit Tiravanija: SUBMIT TO THE BLACK COMPOST
Matthias Weischer: Mirrors and Things
19th Hermès Foundation Missulsang: Sungsil Ryu
A fairly new restaurant, Filleter is all about fish and fish friends. It’s got a sleek yet comfortable vibe, and includes bar seating where you can doze off into the cooking action.
Mon – Thu / 6pm – 12am
Fri – Sat / 5:30pm – 12am
Super close to classic French flavors that are slightly more refined. Must try the whole chicken stuffed with mushrooms.
Mon – Fri / 6pm – 1am
Sat – Sun / 5pm – 1am
No frills spot for good Korean beef and really good cod roe stew. Two men run the restaurant and you’ll likely find them watching kdramas on the tv.
Mon – Sun / 5pm – 11pm
Intimate spot for (possibly) my favorite sushi in Seoul. High quality ingredients without a stuffy vibe. Great variety of ceramics and plates too.
Tue – Sat / 12pm – 9:30pm
Located on the ground floor of Two Michelin Star restaurant Jungsik. A much more casual spot but still with great dishes like their chicken with tomato risotto. Their dessert is plucked straight from the Jungsik menu too – black sesame bingsu topped with their iconic Dolhareubang (Jeju stone statue).
Mon – Sun / 10am – 10pm
Go with the course menu. Fried lotus root is usually one of the dishes, as well as mackerel sushi seared with charcoal. Look forward to the lime udon – you’ll be so full by then, but it’s a refreshing way to end the meal.
Mon – Sat / 6pm – 12am
My favorite restaurant in Seoul. Unlike most fancy restaurants, I feel that Mingles is really welcoming and not too fancy. Stays true to a lot of classic Korean flavors with presentation that feels more homey. It’s additional, but highly recommend getting their guksu (warm noodle soup), served with banchan.
Tue – Sun / 12pm – 10pm
Fun spot for ramen with an exterior that takes you straight back to Japan. Order from a vending machine and all.
Mon – Sun / 11:30am – 9pm (3pm – 5pm break time)
Rated no. 48 in Asia’s 50 Best Bars. I don’t have as distinctive a palate when it comes to cocktails, but they’re good – and all my foodie friends swear by this place.
Mon – Fri / 6:30pm – 2am
Sat – Sun / 3pm – 2am
For a quick and cheap lunch (or late night snack), this place hits the perfect spot with not-too-spicy tteokbokki with fried squid and other dishes.
Mon – Sat / 11:30am – 12am
Seafood + Wine Bar
French Cuisine
Korean Beef BBQ
Sushi Omakase
Brunch Cafe + Wine Bar
Izakaya + Sake
Two Michelin Star Contemporary Korean
Casual Ramen
Asia's 50 Best Bars
Cheap, Classic Street Food
Seafood + Wine Bar
French Cuisine
Korean Beef BBQ
Sushi Omakase
Brunch Cafe + Wine Bar
Izakaya + Sake
Two Michelin Star Contemporary Korean
Casual Ramen
Asia's 50 Best Bars
Cheap, Classic Street Food
Tucked into the residential area of Cheongdam, it’s easy to escape for a whole afternoon downing espresso. The affogatos are a must.
Mon – Sat / 10am – 7:30pm
This is my go-to spot for whenever I need to plug in my headphones and zone out for a serious work session. They roast their own beans but definitely on the pricier side.
Mon – Sun / 10am – 9pm
Young and trendy spot with coffee to satisfy any sweet tooth. Has outdoor seating as well for a good breeze while sipping on their brew.
Mon – Sun / 10am – 9pm
One stop shop to get coffee (or a matcha latte), flowers, and wine. Their decor overflows with greenery.
Mon – Sun / 11am – 11pm
Espresso Bar
Good for Working
Coffee with Cream
Cafe + Flower Shop
Espresso Bar
Good for Working
Coffee with Cream
Cafe + Flower Shop
Similar to MO-NO-HA in our Itaewon Guide, but with a much greater variety. Featuring all things craft ceramic, glass, and metalware.
Mon – Sat / 10am – 7pm
Sun / 12pm – 6pm
The latest in international and Korean fashion all under one roof. Plus, they’ve recently started hosting art exhibitions.
Mon – Sun / 11am – 8pm
Contemporary Ceramics
Luxury Department Store
Contemporary Ceramics
Luxury Department Store