Every time I land back in Seoul, I drop off my bags and head straight for Itaewon & Hannam. It’s my favorite neighborhood when it comes to consistently high quality exhibitions, and the young energy of the area always helps me get over my jet lag. With a wide variety of coffee shops, it’s also a convenient area for whenever I need a spot to work. By the time the evening rolls around, I know I can rely on sticking around the neighborhood to relax with friends at a wine bar or one of the various new restaurants that call Itaewon & Hannam home. 

I’ve organized the list below in order of art, coffee, bars & restaurants, then shops. Hope you enjoy my picks! We’ll keep updating this list as new places pop up.

–Gary Yeh

P.s. Huge, huge thank you to Millimeter Milligram. Your support during the inaugural Frieze Seoul has been incredible and we are so happy to have great partners in this community. Head down to No. 23 on the list to learn more.

Leeum Museum

Cloud Walkers

Apr 29, 2022  —  Sep 18, 2022

While the glitz and glam of Frieze takes over Seoul, Leeum offers a deeper engagement with art through Cloud Walkers. The exhibition looks at the role of Asian art and society on the global scale, asking questions on how we build towards a more sustainable, liberated future. Here, “cloud” refers to all forms – the climate, our imagination, and the internet. You’ll find Kengo Kuma’s elegant wooden structures, Tishan Hsu’s humanoid pixelations, and Guan Xiao’s whimsical totems. The works have a weather-vane quality: with a mixture of serious alarm, and progressive optimism, they show us where the wind is blowing.

Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sun / 10am – 6pm
Wed & Sat / 10am – 9pm

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Pace Seoul

Adrian Ghenie

Sep 2, 2022 — Oct 22, 2022

teamLab: Massless Suns

Sep 2, 2022 — Oct 29, 2022

Step into Pace’s newest digs and you’ll find yourself floating in outer orbit. Massless Suns is an interactive digital installation, showcasing the gallery’s expanded space and brand-spanking-new sculpture garden. Already guaranteed to be an Instagram sensation, teamLab’s show features glowing orbs of light that respond to your touch. Themes of renewal loom large (most literally in a video piece where flowers continually bloom, wilt, die, and bloom again), and neatly reflect Pace’s commitment to digital art. For those new to teamLab, they’re a renowned collective of artists programmers, and animators from Japan.

They share inaugural honors with the Romanian painter Adrian Ghenie, who has a solo exhibition of charcoal drawings. Known for his densely moody scenes, Ghenie recently started using charcoal, a material whose sooty, gritty nature suits his images of grotesquely twisted figures. His old-school drawings are the perfect counterpoint to teamLab’s digital extravaganza, and together the two shows offer an exciting vision of Pace’s future in Seoul.

Tue – Sat / 10am – 6pm

teamLab Info | Ghenie Info | Directions

Lehmann Maupin

McArthur Binion: DNA:Study/(Visual:Ear)

Sep 1, 2022 — Oct 22, 2022

Something joyfully human leaps out at you from McArthur Binion’s graph paper grids and patchwork squares. His abstract paintings focus on identity – a hot topic among young figurative artists these days – yet his old-guard approach (he’s 76 years old) is a refreshing sight. Binion sees repeated patterns as representations of his “underconcious,” and geometry as a “covert expression of identity.” Binion was born on a cotton farm in the American South, and these rural roots continue to influence his painting. You can start to see the similarities between hard agricultural labor and Binion’s intense physical exertions in working his canvases. Slowly but surely the paintings reveal a vivid portrait of the man behind them. 

Tue – Sat / 11am – 7pm

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P21

Choi Haneyl: 태 態 Manner

Aug 25, 2022 — Oct 1, 2022

Visitors to 태 態 Manner are greeted by the silent stare of a massive plasticine man, butt-naked, his tiny head lost above bulging muscles and popping veins. Welcome to the world of Haneyl Choi. You’ll be mildly disturbed one moment and genuinely lol’ing the next. Choi’s signature sculptures splice together body parts and machines. Imagine a white cube version of the mutants from Toy Story. On a gentler note, Choi makes sculptures of orchids inspired by traditional Korean ink drawings. The resulting dissonance defines the show, which is itself split between two galleries. For Choi, dichotomy and contradiction are what it’s all about. Playful without being silly, and bizarre without being gimmicky, Choi 3D prints his way along a very fine line, giving you plenty to think about on the way home (it’s a long trek from Gallery 2).

Curious to hear about the show through Haneyl’s words? We’ve got you covered with our interview with the artist coming out on Sep 1.

Tue – Fri / 11am – 6pm
Sat / 12pm – 6pm

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Various Small Fires

Diedrick Brackens: together our shadows make a single belly

Sep 1, 2022 — TBA

It takes a minute to realize what’s going on in Diedrick Bracken’s newest tapestries. Black, twin-like silhouettes grow out of each other. They hold mysterious orbs and stoop to collect unseen objects. They stand and crouch on backdrops of checks and plaids, with loose threads dangling from their limbs and colorful tassels hanging below their feet. Bracken draws influence from West African symbolism and from the Black literature and pop culture of the American South. There is a constant interplay between the textile material – with its connotations of industry, domestic work, and cultural heritage – and a larger, spiritual narrative that highlights the connections between people. Lots of deep meaning, but they’re also just plain beautiful works. 

Tue – Sat / 10am – 6pm

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Thaddaeus Ropac

Anselm Kiefer: Wer jetzt kein Haus hat (Whoever has no house now)

Sep 1, 2022 — Oct 22, 2022

Solidly fixed in our artsy firmament, Anselm Kiefer seems to make bigger and bolder paintings the older he gets. At 77, he’s nowhere near slowing down. He strikes again in Seoul, with a new series of works that pay homage to the Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke. The series is about autumn, and Kiefer, for all his gloom, can’t escape the lure of classical German Romanticism. So much the better for us, because the new paintings are a real treat, splendid in their lyrical colors and material complexity. You’ll find his usual dark undertones with lead and soot – building on themes of homelessness and war. But gold leaf and imagery of trees and leaves bring the season’s beauty back into play.

Tue – Sat / 10am – 6pm

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David Kordansky

Gallery Pop-up Exhibition

Aug 18, 2022 — Sep 5, 2022

For their first ever pop-up and the first time many of their artists have been exhibited in Seoul, David Kordansky comes to Itaewon. Taking over an entire house, they brought some of their biggest artists today. From Derek Fordjour to Huma Bhabha, Shara Hughes to Jennifer Guidi. Most of the works are more domestically sized, such as one painting by Adam Pendleton that is smaller than you’d typically find (and perfect for a Korean home). You’ll also find two sculptures by Guan Xiao, who has work down the street at Leeum.

Tue – Sat / 11am – 6pm

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Hyundai Card Art Library

Inaugural Opening

The latest to join Hyundai Card’s roster of Libraries (which include Design, Cooking, Travel, and Music), Art Library provides Hyundai Card holders access to 6,000 artbooks in a calm setting for enjoying them. One of the highlights is their display of rare books, which you’re allowed to flip through unsupervised. They also hold a large archive of art magazines, the usual art monographs, and a special room to view media art.

Tue – Sat / 12pm – 9pm
Sun / 12pm – 6pm

More Info | Directions

If the interactive map does not appear below, please refresh the page. Excuse us as we still work out the kinks to our website! 

Anthracite Hannam

Hip Coffee Shop

With so many of the coffee shops in this area being super Instagrammable, it can sometimes be hard to find a seat. Anthracite takes over three floors, though, so that is rarely an issue here. They roast their own beans and rotate daily between different blends that you can choose from. I mainly go here to work, but love the outdoor benches for taking a break or a quick call. Pro tip: they have a kitchen on the top floor they use for their baked goods. Hang out there to take in all the good smells.

Mon – Fri / 9am – 10pm
Sat – Sun / 9:30am – 10pm

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DAY ROW

Yummy Desserts

I’ve tried working here on my laptop a few times, but it’s really best for having casual meetings or hanging out with friends. The café is tucked into the back of a small shaded alleyway, so it’s also a great place to sit outdoors. Come for coffee but stay for the desserts – my favorite is the lemon almond cake!

Tue – Thu / 11am – 9pm
Fri – Sat / 11am – 10pm
Sun / 11am – 9pm

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Crate Coffee

Best Flat White

I love sleek interiors and high ceilings. Crate Coffee has both, plus plenty of different seating to choose from. My usual itinerary starts with checking out whatever show is on view at Thaddaeus Ropac, then Gallery Baton, and then working my way down to Crate for a quick work session and flat white. If I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll grab one of their desserts too – pretty good canneles.

Mon – Fri / 8am – 9pm
Sat – Sun / 9am – 9pm

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Artisan Bakers

Freaking Good Bread

The more you get to know me, the more you’ll realize maybe I should be working in the food industry. Nothing beats good bread for me. Artisan Bakers has a more humble exterior compared to Tartine next door, but you’ll regret not popping by here first. This is the kind of bakery where I stare at the loafs of fig sourdough and debate whether it’s really a healthy decision to have it all to myself. On the few occasions I don’t cave to those desires, I go for the croissants instead.

Tue – Sun / 8:30am – 8pm

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Mutin

French + Wine

Admittedly I’ve never dined here myself, but it is constantly recommended by foodie friends. If you’ve been before, just make note that they are in a new and much larger location about five minutes away. For the time being, I’ll just list all the dishes that I know I’ll be ordering: Sourdough with jambon, octopus chorizo, peach with Jeju pork, sweet corn with abalone…

Tue – Fri / 6pm – 12am
Sat / 4pm – 12am

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Pakin

Natural Wine Bar

The standout at Pakin is their ability to develop deep flavors across all their dishes. Opened about a year ago, Pakin makes good use of a wood fire grill, which you can immediately taste in their prawn and broccoli dishes. I’d also go back for their octopus paccheri in an instant – saucy and perfectly al dente. I had a glass of their orange wine, which was easy drinking. 

Wed – Fri / 6pm – 11pm
Sat – Sun / 3pm – 11pm

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Seoul Gypsy

Experimental Beer Brewery

In the same building as Pakin, Seoul Gypsy’s second location brings their experimental brews to the heart of Itaewon. There really is no better place in Seoul for (very) sour beer. The flavors might be hit or miss for you, but head there with a group of friends and it’ll be a fun time tasting. Guava, mango, lychee, and orange all come together in one brew. Or if you prefer lager, they’ve also released a brew with vanilla, dill, and cinnamon – aged for 8 months. 

Wed – Fri / 4pm – 11pm
Sat – Sun / 3pm – 11pm

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Sicili

Italian + Pasta

I’ve been to the Mediterranean once and distinctly remember three things: the bluest water, the freshest ingredients, and beautiful painted plates. Sicili doesn’t quite sit on the waterfront, but it checks off the other two for a dining experience that momentarily transports you out of Seoul. For lunch, they’re a super reasonably priced pasta bar. For dinner, it’s prix fixe only (but that does include a couple of their great pasta dishes). 

Wed – Sun / 12pm – 2:30pm (pasta bar), 6pm – 10pm (prix fixe)

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Gongi

Contemporary Korean

This seems to be a favorite among the art crowd – I’ve been three times and always with a gallerist or two. The cubes of steak with wasabi are worth skipping (a bit overpriced and you’re better off saving that for a nice BBQ restaurant), but don’t miss out on their fried eggplant and shrimp combo or their abalone noodles. 

Mon – Sat / 12pm – 9:30pm (3pm – 5:30pm break time)

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ckbg.lab

Fried Chicken Burgers

The story goes that people loved Yoo Yong-woo’s fried chicken burger so much (from his famed barbecue prix fixe experience), that he turned the dish into a restaurant. It really is that good and focused on the basics with red cabbage, a slice of cheese, and your pick of spice levels. Recently, they’ve added more traditional fried chicken to the menu (the drumstick and thigh kind). Worth a try but I’d recommend starting your day here if you don’t want to risk waiting in lines for too long. 

Mon – Fri / 11:30am – 9pm (3pm – 5:30pm break time)
Sat – Sun / 11:30am – 9pm

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Soseoul Hannam

Modern Korean

For a special treat, head over to Soseoul, a one Michelin star restaurant that elevates traditional Korean dishes and flavors. The dish you’ll see Instagrammed the most is their signature noodles that riffs on bibim makguksu (mixed cold noodles). With a subtle note of sesame and perilla oil that coats the buckwheat noodles, it’s comfort food for anyone who grew up in Korea yet still a new experience for your palate. While you might go for wine pairings at the usual prix fixe Michelin restaurant, Soseoul also offers a more local take with traditional Korean liquor pairings. 

Tue – Sun / 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm

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Big Lights

Natural Wine Bar

Ask any local art world friend and they’ve definitely visited Big Lights on more than one occasion. It’s the first natural wine bar in Seoul (a big deal given that natural wine bars are all the rage these days). As the first one, they’ve got first pick on many of the great wines that make it into Seoul. The food (mostly wood-fired) is also consistently great and the intimate setting makes is good for conversations with dates or just friends. Dogs are welcome too, and if you get lucky, the restaurant owner’s dogs will be hanging around to say hi. 

Mon / 5pm – 11pm
Wed – Fri / 5pm – 11pm
Sat / 2pm – 11pm
Sun / 2pm – 10pm

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Salad Seller

Salads + Sandwiches

This is a much more casual spot than most on this list, but when you’re running from gallery to gallery during the day, it’s good to have a quick (and healthy) lunch to keep you going. You can go for one of the year-round classics like the quinoa grain bowl or for one of the seasonal favorites like the fig and ricotta salad. Seating can fill up quick on the inside, but luckily they have a long outdoor bench to enjoy your salad (or sandwich). 

Tue – Sat / 11am – 9pm (3pm – 4:30pm break time on weekdays)
Sun / 11am – 7pm

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MO-NO-HA

Contemporary Ceramics

Although slightly out of the way, MO-NO-HA is a shop that has a little bit of everything for those who enjoy the finer things in life. Occasionally they put on art exhibitions (previously featured Yun Hyong-keun and Lee Ufan), but I like going back often to see the new ceramics and assorted Korean crafts they have for sale. Tiny wooden tables, metal teapots, and a range of cutlery makes it easy to break the bank though – so proceed with caution. 

Tue – Sun / 11am – 7:30pm

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Millimeter Milligram (MMMG)

Design + Furniture Store

If you’re looking for anything that is tastefully designed with a bit of fun, head over to MMMG. They’ve got everything from trinkets and welcome cards to cutlery, furniture, and totes. They’re a big player in the Itaewon community, and also the home to ArtDrunk’s first ever art party anywhere in the world. Show them some support and head over to MMMG!  

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