Surrounding Gyeongbokgung Palace – the main historical palace in Seoul – Samcheong and Seochon are the closest Seoul has to traditional gallery hopping neighborhoods like New York’s Chelsea or London’s Mayfair. Kukje Gallery and MMCA Seoul anchor the scene here, with various other galleries located on streets that weave through historical architecture. The area has become quite touristy – you’ll find people dressed in hanbok (which gives you free entry to the palace) – and there’s even a Blue Bottle Coffee. But it’s still a must-visit area for the art and the classic hanok style houses in Bukchon just a little bit further east.

I’ve organized the list below in the following order: art, bars & restaurants, coffee, then shops. Hope you enjoy my picks! We’ll keep updating this list as new places pop up.

–Gary Yeh

MMCA Seoul

Hito Steyerl: A Sea of Data

Apr 29, 2022  —  Sep 18, 2022

Imagine stepping into the hard drive of a video-based artist who has been working for over 30 years. Now throw in some Tron aesthetics and you have yourself the immersive experience that makes up Hito Steyerl’s exhibition at MMCA. Featuring 23 of her works, the show takes you through her journey understanding our increasingly digital world. At first, this is the kind of show that may leave you a bit puzzled. But give it a chance and you’ll start to see the relevance of her art. Politics, technology, and social media all emerge as themes while she takes a critical look at how images are produced and shared today.

Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sun / 10am – 6pm
Wed & Sat / 10am – 9pm

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Kukje Gallery

Lee Seung Jio

Sep 1, 2022  —  Oct 30, 2022

Literally translated as “international gallery”, Kukje is the biggest player in Korea’s commercial gallery scene. They also have a location in Busan (a large port city in the south), but in Seoul you’ll find three main exhibition spaces, which they call K1, K2, and K3. One of the main attractions is actually K3 itself, which is a standalone building wrapped in chainmail. Recently, Kukje also opened a hanok exhibition space adjacent to the others. During Frieze, they’ll have a solo presentation of the artist Lee Seung Jio. He’s known for his geometric abstraction that has a sense of vibrating in space. 

Mon – Sat / 10am – 6pm
Sun / 10am – 5pm

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PKM Gallery

Chung Chang-Sup: Mind in Matter

Aug 25, 2022  —  Oct 15, 2022

Mind in Matter brings together two of Chung Chang-Sup’s iconic series. The first is his Tak series, made from mixing hanji, mulberry bark fibers, and water that spread out onto canvas. In the way that Michelangelo treated his job as unleashing the figures from within his marble blocks, Chung treats his materials similarly – letting them reveal their character as the artworks naturally take shape. His Meditation series takes this idea further while exploring the use of color. He often employed a pressing technique that leaves a square indentation in the work. He creates a literal space for your mind to occupy – and meditate.

Tue – Sat / 10am – 6pm

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Gallery Hyundai

Ayoung Kim: Syntax and Sorcery

Aug 10, 2022  —  Sep 14, 2022

In a world where the line between fact and fiction is blurred, Ayoung Kim takes you on an animated journey to find the missing “truth”. Ernst Mo, a female delivery driver, plays the lead role in an AI-dominated future. You never know what exactly she is delivering. Yet like with any delivery app in our modern society, the drivers follow algorithms that take them on the most efficient paths – only to further drown them in non-stop orders and deliveries. Kim leaves you also wondering how best to navigate the apps and algorithms that might already be controlling your life.

Tue – Sun / 10am – 6pm

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Art Sonje

Korakrit Arunanondchai: Songs for dying/Songs for living

Aug 30, 2022  —  Oct 30, 2022

For his first solo exhibition in Korea, Arunanondchai brings two films to Art Sonje. The first, Songs for dying, was created as the artist reflected on the loss of his grandfather. Imagery of anti-government protests in Thailand and other political events play a role throughout, commenting on the intersection between personal and historical narratives. Songs for living deals more with spirituality and the communities that form around their beliefs. He usually creates unique environments for screening his films – massive cushions and surreal lighting to fully immerse you in his story.  

Tue / 12pm – 7pm
Wed / 12pm – 9pm
Thu – Sun / 12pm – 7pm

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Gallery 2

Haneyl Choi: 태 態 Manner

Aug 25, 2022  —  Oct 1, 2022

Visitors to 태 態 Manner are greeted by the silent stare of a massive plasticine man, butt-naked, his tiny head lost above bulging muscles and popping veins. Welcome to the world of Haneyl Choi. You’ll be mildly disturbed one moment and genuinely lol’ing the next. Choi’s signature sculptures splice together body parts and machines. Imagine a white cube version of the mutants from Toy Story. On a gentler note, Choi makes sculptures of orchids inspired by traditional Korean ink drawings. The resulting dissonance defines the show, which is itself split between two galleries. For Choi, dichotomy and contradiction are what it’s all about. Playful without being silly, and bizarre without being gimmicky, Choi 3D prints his way along a very fine line, giving you plenty to think about on the way home (it’s a long trek from Gallery 2).

Tue – Sat / 10am – 7pm

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Tina Kim Gallery (at Songwon Art Center)

The Cumulative Effect

Aug 30, 2022  —  Sep 15, 2022

Egg tempera and gold leaf, embroidery and gel, wooden canes and cuttlefish bones. The inquisitive visitor can find all of the above on the walls at Songwon Art Center, where Tina Kim, Andrew Kreps, and Bortolami share a pop-up. A cheerful roster of artists shows how distinctly personal style derives from an obsession with materials. Many of the pieces also share collective narratives of history, community, and culture. Some artists and works to look forward to include: Mary Obering’s Renaissance-inspired blocks, Suki Seokyeong Kang’s delicately woven mats, and Pacita Abad’s razzle-dazzle prints.

Tue – Sun / 11am – 6pm

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Jason Haam

Urs Fischer: Pink Motor

Aug 25, 2022  —  Oct 18, 2022

Urs Fischer brings his characteristic mashing together of subjects – or chaos as you might call it – to Seoul. Imagery of film stills, jagged fences, violence, and even Amazon Prime are all layered into his work. But it’s not so much the individual images he wants you to focus on. Rather it’s the atmosphere that’s created from these objects. 

Tue – Sat / 9:30am – 6pm

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Museumhead

Jung Yoo-jin: Run

Jul 20, 2022  —  Sep 7, 2022

With disasters unfortunately taking up headlines on a daily basis, Run comments on their disorienting effect. Sandbags piled to the ceiling, anti-tank fences, and a variety of other industrial materials fill the museum space like a disaster-themed theme park. You might visit an art setting, looking for an escape from your everyday life. But Jung Yoo-jin brings you straight back into the dark realities of this time.

Tue – Sat / 12pm – 7pm

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Jogeum (조금)

Japanese Clay Pot Rice

Simple meal sets focused on clay pot rice topped with seafood or vegetables. Conveniently located at the mouth of the road leading towards the galleries and museums in this neighborhood.

Mon – Sun / 10:30am – 8:30pm

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Onjium (온지음)

Michelin Star Korean

Part of the food research arm of Arumjigi, a cultural foundation built on preserving Korean beauty and craft. In this case of Onjium, preserving and highlighting Korean traditional culinary techniques and flavors.  

Tue – Fri / 12pm – 10pm

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Salt House (소금집)

Deli + Sandwiches

Must-try the jambon beurre. They also have cured meats like guanciale, which are typically impossible to source in Korea. 

Tue – Sun / 11am – 10pm

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Balwoo Gongyang (발우공양)

Temple Food (Vegan)

If you’ve seen the Chef’s Table episode on Jeong Kwan, you’ll already be familiar with temple food. Balwoo Gongyang is exactly that, treating vegan ingredients in unexpected ways that create textures no different from real meat. 

Mon – Sat / 11:30am – 9:30pm (3pm – 6pm break time)

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Gong Gan (공간)

Bar w/ Nature Vibes

Natural wood furnishings and a glass-enclosed courtyard in the center make for a relaxing spot for cocktails.

Tue – Sun / 4pm – 2am (food served from 6pm – 12am)

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Kandasoba (칸다소바)

Mazesoba Restaurant (Dry Noodles) 

Go during lunch hour and you’ll definitely need to wait. Otherwise, it’s a good spot for noodles in a thick, meaty sauce.

Mon – Sun / 11:30am – 8:30pm (break time 3:30pm – 5pm)

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Kizuna (키즈나)

Sushi Omakase

Hidden behind MMCA Seoul, Kizuna offers reasonably priced omakase in a highly intimate setting (7 seats only). 

Tue – Sat / 12pm – 9:30pm 

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Bar Cham

Asia’s 50 Best Bars

Cocktails with a modern twist on traditional Korean liquors and spirits. Set inside a hanok to further add to the experience. 

Mon – Sun / 6pm – 1am (closed Tue)

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Patic (파틱)

Southern French Bistro

A slight trek to reach but worth it for the fried octopus salad, spinach pasta, and scallops in the shell. 

Tue – Sun / 12pm – 10pm (break time 3pm – 5pm)

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Myomi (묘미)

Korean + Palace Views

Located on the 5th floor of Arario Museum, Myomi is great for contemporary Korean food but is best for the views overlooking Changdeokgung Palace. One Michelin star. 

Tue – Sat / 12pm – 10pm

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Fritz Coffee (프릳츠 원서점)

Independent Coffee Roasters

Hands down one of the best roasters in Seoul. Multiple locations but this one is at the base of Arario Museum. Good coffee on the spot or lots of beans to choose from for brewing at home. 

Mon – Sun / 10am – 9pm

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yyyynnn (와이엔)

Minimalist Coffee Shop

Sleek setting that’s good for both working and hanging out with friends. Great coffee to pair with large desserts (luckily not too sweet).

Mon – Sun / 11am – 9pm

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Osulloc Tea House (오설록 티하우스)

Tea Heaven

All things tea, Osulloc takes over three floors in the Bukchon area to offer tea cocktails, tea snacks, tea classes, and of course tea. True to the brand, the overall vibe is very natural and comfortable. 

Sun – Thu / 11am – 9pm
Fri – Sat / 11am – 10pm

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Cafe Archivist (아키비스트)

Viennese Coffee + Cakes

Known for their Einspänner – coffee topped with whipped cream and cocoa powder – with plenty of treats to add to your sugar rush. Try the lemon cake or butter scones. 

Mon – Sun / 11am – 9pm

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The Book Society (더북소사이어티)

Art Book Store

Eclectic mix of art books in both English and Korean. If you’re looking for the usual coffee table monograph, head to Post Poetics in our Itaewon & Hannam Guide. If deeper reads are your thing, then The Book Society will offer a better selection. 

Tue – Sun / 1pm – 8pm

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Daegu Sesame Oil (대구참기름집)

Best Sesame Oil

Not much more to it than having the best sesame oil in town. Unassuming exterior but you’ll be lured in by the most fragrant of scents.

Mon – Sun / 9am – 8:30pm

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